Cuttlefish ribollita (with bay leaf)


3rd April 2020 – 18: 57

Fulvio and Fulvietto Pierangelini's dish, thinking of fishermen

of Divina Vitale

It's time for cuttlefish. They are fished in large quantities in our seas. And if someone in addition to going shopping at the supermarket has the opportunity to buy directly from authorized fishermen, it does good and right. It also helps them, a category that like many others is not doing very well. In any case, for the recipe we will tell, those from the supermarket are also fine. This is what Fulvietto Pierangelini suggests, from the Bucaniere restaurant in San Vincenzo, which together with his father, the star chef Fulvio Pierangelini, offers cuttlefish ribollita as a recipe to be prepared at home.

“Stock up on cuttlefish, it is an excellent and cheap supply”

«Now many of them are fished – says Fulvietto, also a fisherman – with gillnets or pots. I thought the dish with what I had at home, black cabbage and beans. It is a healthy dish, ideal for the sedentary period we are experiencing and above all it can help the few local fishermen who still go to sea. Indeed, my advice is to stock up on cuttlefish and then freeze them, without washing them in fresh water, so they remain more tender. It is an excellent supply, versatile and cheap. ” Between March and April the cuttlefish approach the coast to lay their eggs: they look like small clusters of black grapes and remain attached to the posidonia leaves until they hatch. «In the late spring of 2011, during the last stages of construction of my restaurant there was a strong storm. Immediately afterwards I noticed an unusual beaching of bunches with black balls, they were just cuttlefish eggs. With a bucket full of sea water I collected them as much as I could, after a few minutes the cuttlefish were already being born. I equipped myself with an old aquarium and continued the rescue, then freeing them, day by day, at sea. ”

The process, with a touch of the author

Laurel powder is added to the dish. “Because – continues Fulvietto – there is a link with the technique of fishing for pots with laurel. They are positioned near the coast, in sandy areas and the cuttlefish enter it finding a solid foothold: the laurel acts as a seaweed. A life cycle, once the female is inside the males arrive and the fishing ends. Thus only mature specimens are taken ». The cuttlefish must be cleaned being very careful not to break the bag with black (which must then be heated without boiling it). «They must be cut into strips – explain the chefs – and engraved with a very sharp knife, without cutting them. The black cabbage must be carefully cleaned by removing the central fiber, while the florets must be made crispy in a pan and added to the plate, at the end. Half the leaves will be boiled in boiling salted water for a few minutes. The other half blended and seasoned. The beans must be reduced to cream, adding the cooking water to obtain the right density. Finally the cuttlefish strips must be passed in a pan with a clove of garlic, oil and chilli pepper. In the dish, prepare a base with the seasoned bean puree, add the cream of black cabbage, the cabbage rolls with the cuttlefish inside and around a few drops of black, a drizzle of oil and the bay leaf. “

April 3 2020 | 18: 57


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